Day 2 in Bonifacio, Corsica – Campu Rumanilu & Pertusatu Coastal Walk
This was our Day 2 in Bonifacio, Corsica, France. In the morning, we climbed the famous Aragon Staircase, and in the evening we headed to the Campu Rumanilu Trail in Corsica. It is about a 3.7 km trail (7.4 km round trip) with a 135-metre elevation gain. You can see how this day fits into our full 3-day Bonifacio itinerary, which includes all the major sights and activities across the island of Corsica.
Campu Rumanilu & Pertusatu Hike
The Sentier de Campu Rumanilu & Pertusatu hike includes two trails combined: Campu Rumanilu and Pertusatu. Campu Rumanilu is an easy walk starting from Col Saint-Roch in Bonifacio and follows a coastal path along limestone cliffs. The Pertusatu trail continues from there and takes you all the way to the historic Pertusatu Lighthouse. Combined, both trails together are roughly about 10 km back and forth.
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Campu Rumanilu Trailhead
Reaching the Trailhead
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Intersection of the paths to the Citadel, Marina and the coastal Campu Rumanilu trailhead
Our goal for the Day 2 evening in Bonifacio was to walk this coastal trail. We headed to the trailhead, which starts at the point where the path to the Upper Town (and Citadel) meets the path heading down to the Port of Bonifacio (the Marina). The paths to the Upper Town, the Marina, and the Campu Rumanilu trail intersect at a viewpoint, and the Campu Rumanilu trail begins between the upper path to the town and the lower path to the Marina.
Walking Along the Cliffs
We started walking along the coast, enjoying the scenic beauty of the cliffs and the sea. A few minutes later, we turned back to get a beautiful view of the famous hanging houses of Bonifacio, Corsica. Most of the houses appeared to be only partly supported, with the rest seemingly hanging over the sea. This created a stunning yet slightly scary view, combined with the limestone-carved cliffs.
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Hanging cliffs of Bonifacio
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Le Grain de Sable, Campu Rumanilu trail
From the trailhead and along the trail, we got different panoramic views of the rocks of Sutt’a Roca, as well as Le Grain de Sable, the famous rock formation standing in the middle of the sea, and the stunning view of the Strait of Bonifacio. There were some sections where the trail got very close to the cliff edge, but nothing that would scare even people with a fear of heights, like myself.
It was late July, the weather was pleasant, and the sun was still shining brightly. We were able to see the Lavezzi Islands, the Italian island of Sardinia, and several other islands on the horizon.
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Walking along the trail to the lighthouse
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From the trail’s higher ground, the sea and the town are hidden in their own quiet hollows
Missing the Trail and Finding a Secret Beach
Amazed by the breathtaking beauty and quietness of this place, we kept walking. At one point, there was a signboard that said “End of Campu Rumanilu Trail,” but the muddy path still continued. Since we hadn’t reached the lighthouse yet, we decided to continue, hoping to catch the Pertusatu trail.
To our surprise, the muddy trail eventually ended and merged with a road where cars were passing. At this point, we were sure we had missed the sign for the Pertusatu trail, but we were curious to continue. We walked along the footpath for a few minutes and met some locals. We chatted with them, and they told us they were heading for a swim. That’s when we realized there was a gap in the cliff that led down to a beach, which was not visible from where we were.
Descending to the Beach
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We decided to go down the cliff to get a view from the water. The path started from the curb and was covered with thick, dense bushes, some of them thorny, so we descended carefully. After a few metres, the trail opened up, and we could see the beautiful view of the sea.
It was not an easy walk. We had to descend along the cliff over large boulders and slippery gravel. The couple told us this was a secret beach used by locals. We kept going down for about 40 to 45 minutes, yes, that’s how long it took, and we hadn’t realized how high the cliff was. Every time we caught a glimpse of the beach through the gap, it encouraged us to keep going. Along the path, we were able to see the lines carved into the cliffs up close. The view of the setting sun through the gap in the cliff was simply amazing.
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View of Tyrrhenian Sea – Strait of Bonifacio
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Cave in the limestone cliff
At the Wild Beach
Once we reached the bottom, we were rewarded with a beautiful view of the Strait of Bonifacio, Le Grain de Sable, and the beach. It was a wild beach, and we went down to the water. We noticed a huge natural cave near the shore, carved into the cliff, which the locals used as a changing room.
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Tyrehenian sea
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Sea weed and the shells
Since we hadn’t planned for a swim, we just waded through the water. The shoreline was full of seaweed and shells. Being at the foot of those gigantic limestone cliffs gave us a grounding, humbling feeling. It was incredible to be in such an isolated, wild place. What else can I say about this beauty, the pictures say it all.
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At the Wild Beach
Heading Back
We spent about an hour at the beach, and then it was time for sunset. We wanted to head back to the trail before it got too dark. Now came the fun part, trekking our way back up to the road. This time, it took us about an hour to climb back up.
Though we didn’t reach the lighthouse, we were happy to have discovered this off-the-
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The beautiful view of the setting sun through the gap
beaten-path route to the Tyrrhenian Sea in Bonifacio.
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Campu Rumanilu trail
Overall, the Campu Rumanilu hike and the beach adventure took us about five hours. By the time we returned to the Marina, it was around 9:30 PM, and most of the restaurants were closed. So we decided to prepare dinner at our accommodation and called it a day, feeling completely exhausted but deeply satisfied.
We had planned to stroll along the marina in the evening like we
did after our first day exploring Bonifacio, but our tired feet had other ideas. So no new candies for Day 2… although we happily finished every last piece of the ones we’d bought the day before! Our promise to resist buying more candies was holding strong… at least for now.
Tours we Recommend in Bonifacio
Take a boat trip to the breathtaking Lavezzi Islands, where you can swim in crystal-clear turquoise waters and relax on pristine granite-lined beaches.
Find the best Lavezzi Island tours here.
Explore Bonifacio from a boat: Visit Bonifacio by Sea
Where to Stay
Stay near the Port of Bonifacio or uphill in the old town.
Here are some suggestions for up hill hotels with sea view
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